Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk

Among all the ready-to-wear fashion, it’s sometimes easy to forget that clothes are a form of expression just like art and music. We forget that a simple shirt came from an idea that couldn’t and wouldn’t be contained. The de Young Museum in San Francisco, Calif. features The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk – an exhibit dedicated to Gaultier’s wearable art. Walking into the exhibit, there’s a short bio posted on the wall with a few quotes from Gaultier and another wall has a small message with the designer’s autograph. Everything seems like a typical exhibit at any museum until you pass the barrier marked by a sign: “This exhibition contains adult themes.”

The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier

The entrance guides you into a dimly lit room where you hear some gentle music, female voices singing faintly and there is a man is speaking. It’s Gaultier giving an introduction to his world. The exhibit is sectioned off and it begins with “The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier,” which features some signature Gaultier pieces. There’s a stage of mannequins wearing Gaultier’s French-inspired navy blue stripes and elegant, decadent gowns from his Virgins collection. As you get closer to the mannequins, you realize their faces are moving. They’re speaking and singing (with help from some projectors and speakers). The exhibit is alive. “I see so many people captivated by that,” said Larry Lippold, a San Franciscan visiting the museum. Lippold wasn’t very familiar with Gaultier before the exhibition, but found it to be very exciting, overwhelming and “much larger and deeper” than he expected.

The Boudoir

A walk through section features Gaultier’s work with lingerie. His first corset dress is on display and a few pieces from his work with Madonna‘s 1995 “Blond Ambition” world tour are displayed here as well. Bustiers are abundant in this room – all showing the designers versatility from feminine ruffles to metallic squares with a straight edge. Gaultier’s childhood teddy bear “Nana” in its own bustier – Gaultier’s first fashion creation.

Skin Deep

The aforementioned “adult themes” really begin here. This section delves into pieces inspired by bondage. Three human body pieces are displayed. These are pieces that show the skeletal, muscular and cardiovascular systems – a very in-depth look at what’s inside a person.

Punk Cancan

This section focused on the combination of chic French fashion mixed with the studded punk style found in London. Skirts that could go on show at the Moulin Rouge are displayed next to plaid kilts, studded belts and mohawks. This was the best part.  The “Punk Cancan” exposes the differences between two cultures and celebrates diversity. The sleek, upscale French designs seem to clash with the gritty, patched jackets bearing anarchy signs. This is only at a first glance, though. You realize that the two, though very different, have at least one aspect in common: both are fashion archetypes. Both are bold and unmistakable, and in this diversity we begin to see the two mesh instead of clash.

Urban Jungle

Here is where you see Gaultier’s skill being put to the test. These garments feature Mongolian furs and ostrich feathered boots – unusual fabrics and textiles are used by Gaultier to create some exquisite pieces. Multiculturalism is found here at its finest. 

Metropolis

This final section features a large screen showing clips of movies that Gaultier has worked on, like “The Fifth Element.” There are smaller screens showing music videos and commercials that feature some of Gaultier’s designs. The name “Metropolis” really should have been named “Empire.” This last section summed up what Gaultier has done off the catwalk. The movie clips, commercials and music videos roll in a continuous loop as a reminder that this man built an entire kingdom off of art and expression. Maria Stainbrook of Marin County, Calif. was visiting and found the diversity and imagination of Gaultier to be amazing. “Oh, [it's] phenomenal. Just so creative, so due,” Stainbrook said. The exhibit is not just a fashion show, but a lifetime (from 1976 to 2010) of a man’s hard work. There are 140 designs on display along with pictures and sketches. It isn’t so much an exhibit as it is a masterpiece in itself.

-Geneva Toddy