Vitaliya Bykova: Fine Tuned Fashion

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - APRIL 02: A model wears a creation by designers from Laboratoriya 13 on Day 3 of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fall/Winter 2011/2012 at the Congress Hall on April 2, 2011 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Vitaliya Bykova has a way with clothes. If you take a quick glance, there’s nothing particularly outstanding. However, the pieces as a whole – the dress with an odd shape, the coat that should look ridiculous, but somehow isn’t – suddenly look incredibly stylish and fashion forward. For Bykova, the art is in the details. A slight tuck here and a carefully draped shoulder there creates a vision in high fashion.

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In 2007, Bykova launched her first line of men’s apparel. Vitaliya Bykova as a brand was focused on men’s business attire. This crept into women’s apparel, where Bykova now focuses her attention. In 2011, Bykova went through a rebranding period. Now, the line focuses on women’s and children’s apparel as well as accessories.

On the aesthetic side, Bykova’s creations always feature some eye candy. Her fall/winter 2011 line featured some short dresses in bright colors – ones that would normally be set for a spring look – with asymmetrical collar lines. The combination of fall and spring was pulled off well by the designer. Now, pops of color in all her lines are common. Bykova’s fall/winter for 2013 features a bright red hue in many of the pieces. This is a way to add some flair to what is normally just blacks and greys walking down the runway without adding a bunch of fur.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - MARCH 30:  A bag detail is seen as a model walks the runway at the Vitaliya Bykova show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fall/Winter 2013/2014 at Manege on March 30, 2013 in Moscow, Russia.  (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for MBFW Russia)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – MARCH 30: A bag detail is seen as a model walks the runway at the Vitaliya Bykova show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fall/Winter 2013/2014 at Manege on March 30, 2013 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for MBFW Russia)

If you look even closer, what sticks out most by this designer is the detail. She has the ability to give any fabric the appropriate structure. The build for her jackets and collars are precise and exact, and move through the runway as if it were the natural state.

Other than structure, Bykova has a few other tricks up her sleeve like little twists on what would normally be viewed. A blouse has the lapels of a blazer, but comes to an elegant v-neck with a belted waist. The seemingly insignificant, but specifically placed pleats on a skirt or how a blouse is tucked into a pair of pants are the finer details that leave an overall exceptional effect to what would otherwise be considered ordinary.

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Another aspect of Bykova’s design is in even more detail. Any designer will tell you that styling for a show can make or break a piece. For Bykova, the styling matches just about what you would see even off the runway. Models have little make up, all in natural nude shades. Her younger models for the children’s line are styled like kids – braided hair with a pair Chuck Taylors is what you’ll find. The simplicity of the style brings out the skill and beauty of the design.

The fabrics that Bykova works with are all simple – usually cotton or wool can be found draping her models. With the styling as well as subtle details, it would seem that simplicity is key, but this isn’t the case. It isn’t simplicity, but rather a fine tuned attention to extreme detail. The smallest elements come together to make an ordinary piece of clothing to become much more.
-Geneva Toddy